Working with Cashmere: A Buyer's Guide to Quality and Sourcing

Cashmere represents the pinnacle of knitwear luxury. But sourcing quality cashmere requires understanding the fiber, grading system, and production process. This guide covers what to look for when sourcing cashmere knitwear.

Understanding Cashmere Quality

Fiber Diameter

Cashmere quality is primarily determined by fiber diameter:

Premium: Under 15.5 microns (ultra-fine)
Standard: 15.5-16.5 microns (good quality)
Entry-level: 16.5-18 microns (still cashmere, but coarser)

Lower micron count = softer, more expensive, and more delicate.

Fiber Length

Longer fibers produce stronger, more durable yarn:

Long staple: 36-40mm (premium)
Medium staple: 30-35mm (standard)
Short staple: Under 30mm (lower quality, more pilling)

Color and Purity

Natural white cashmere is the most valuable because it takes dye best. Grey and brown cashmere are less versatile for color options.

Cashmere Sources

Inner Mongolia (90% of Global Supply)

Inner Mongolia produces the world’s finest cashmere. The region’s harsh winters produce goats with the finest undercoats.

Other Sources

Iran and Afghanistan (coarser, lower price)
Scotland (processing and finishing expertise)
Italy (luxury finishing and branding)

Cashmere Yarn Types

Pure Cashmere (100%)

Softest and most luxurious
Requires careful care
Best for luxury positioning

Cashmere Blends

Cashmere-silk: Adds luster and strength
Cashmere-wool: More durable, less expensive
Cashmere-cotton: Lighter weight, year-round wear
Cashmere-nylon: Adds strength and shape retention

Production Considerations

Gauge Selection

Cashmere works best at 7GG-14GG:

7GG-9GG: Chunky cashmere sweaters, popular luxury item
12GG-14GG: Fine cashmere, lightweight layering

Care Requirements

Cashmere requires dry cleaning or hand washing. Include clear care instructions with every garment.

Pilling

All cashmere pills to some degree. Higher quality (longer staple) fibers pill less. Educate customers on proper care and provide pill removers.

Cost Breakdown

Cashmere Grade	Yarn Cost/kg	Relative Garment Cost
Entry-level	$60-80	1.0x
Standard	$80-120	1.3-1.6x
Premium (ultra-fine)	$120-200+	1.8-2.5x

A 7GG cashmere sweater requires approximately 250-350g of yarn, so yarn cost alone ranges from $15-70 per garment.

Ethical Considerations

Animal welfare: Cashmere goats should be humanely raised
Environmental impact: Overgrazing is a concern in Mongolia
Sustainable options: Look for recycled cashmere or certified sustainable sources

Our Cashmere Capability

We source cashmere yarns through established supply chains and offer pure cashmere and cashmere blend options for our clients.

Interested in cashmere for your collection? Contact us to discuss options.